In order to deliver the most beautiful, durable, and valuable fine jewelry, we use only solid gold in our pieces. We never use gold plating, gold filling, or gold vermeil. But what exactly does all that mean? And why is solid gold the superior choice? Let’s look at the differences between these four types of gold jewelry.
Gold-Plated
When jewelry is gold-plated, a thin layer of gold is added to a base metal. The base metal could be anything. It could be extremely cheap zinc, it could be copper, it could be an alloy like brass or stainless steel. Since the layer of gold is so thin, even minor scratches can expose the base metal underneath the gold plating.
Gold Vermeil
This is a type of gold plating in which the base metal is 925 sterling silver. You’re still getting a minuscule amount of gold, but if the jewelry is described as “gold vermeil” and not “gold plated,” you can at least take comfort in the fact that the base metal is silver, a precious metal, and not something cheap. Gold vermeil is also known as silver gilt or gilded silver. The term “silver gilt” is more common in British English, while “gold vermeil” is more common in the United States. And in the United States, there are laws stipulating that any product advertised as “gold vermeil” must contain sterling silver and a certain amount of gold, so any reputable jeweler will not call something “gold vermeil” unless it adheres to these regulations.
Gold-Filled
Gold filling is like gold plating in that it consists of a layer of gold on top of a base metal. The difference is that while gold-plated jewelry contains only 0.05% gold, gold must make up at least 5% of the total weight of gold-filled jewelry. So while they may look similar—a thin layer of gold on top of a base metal—gold-filled jewelry contains 100 times more gold than gold-plated jewelry! The thicker layer of gold means that gold-filled jewelry can withstand much more wear and tear than gold-plated jewelry.
The filling process is different from the plating process, as well. In gold-filled jewelry production, a gold sheet is wrapped around the base metal, heated, and rolled until the metals are bonded. This is why vintage gold-filled jewelry is often referred to as “rolled gold.”
Solid Gold
Finally, there’s solid gold jewelry. Sure, it’s more expensive, but that’s because it will last a lifetime, unlike gold-plated jewelry. It is also less likely to tarnish than many of the types of base metals used. With all types of gold-plated jewelry, the base metal can tarnish, and that corrosion will begin to affect the appearance of the gold.
This isn’t to say that gold will never tarnish. 100% pure gold does not tarnish, but even 24k gold is only 99.99% pure. So while 18k gold can tarnish, it is highly resistant to tarnishing, especially if you care for your jewels properly.
All That Glitters Is Not Gold
Though visually indistinguishable from solid gold at first glance, gold plating can be easily damaged and is not ideal for fine jewelry. Gold-filled jewelry can be a beautiful and more durable alternative, while gold vermeil guarantees that what’s under the gold is another precious metal suitable for fine jewelry. None of them, however, beat the value and durability of solid gold. No matter the gold plating technique used, the outer layer of gold can get scratched, exposing the base metal, and the base metal can also tarnish and damage the gold layer. Even exposure to water can damage the bond between the base metal and gold layer. And don’t forget that different base metals can cause allergic reactions when they come in contact with the skin. Gold may be the hardest hue to hold, according to Robert Frost, but solid gold will keep its beauty and its value for much longer.
